Garden Basics
- Care & Maintenance
 

CARE & MAINTENANCE
	Lawn Care
	Fertilizer - Why Plants Need It
	Reading the Label
	Snails & Slugs
	Plant Diseases
	Safety in the Garden
	Common Garden Pests

The key to a healthy and attractive lawn is the degree of care taken with the preparation of the soil before the lawn is laid or sown. This preparation is similar whether you opt to grow your lawn from seed or whether you choose to use instant turf.

* relieving compaction through ripping (Ripping, rather than rotary hoeing, is less likely to damage the structure of the soil.

* cultivating to provide a well-drained root zone. Ideally this would be 25cm deep.

* pH testing (Turf requires soil that is neutral to slightly alkaline.)

* amending soil where necessary to create the appropriate sandy texture required for fast and effective seed germination and seedling establishment. (Any soil, or organic matter, that is introduced to a site should be mixed in well with the existing site soil. Don't just spread topsoil over the existing soil. Mix it.)

* ensuring that there is a good match between the texture of the sod soil and the site soil if instant turf is used

* incorporating fertiliser into the top 10mm of the soil. (Choose a fertiliser that is especially formulated for new lawns.)

* choosing a species of lawn grass that is suitable for the climate. In Australia heat and drought tolerance are most important. New lawns need to be watered diligently. In hot, dry weather newly laid turf may need watering several times daily.

Problems with established lawns

Drainage
Poor drainage is generally the result of poor site preparation. Plastic agricultural piping is not difficult to install. Sods of turf can be lifted carefully (don't let them dry out), a trench dug, piping laid draining to a deeper gravel-filled pit and covered with coarse sand or fine gravel and then site soil, and the sods replaced. Because water will not move from a layer of fine textured soil to a layer of coarse textured soil until the fine textured soil is totally saturated, there is no danger of the drains "drawing water away" from the soil in dry times. They will only work once the soil is saturated.

Compaction
Poor root development of lawn grass is generally caused either by compaction of the soil or by mowing the grass too short. The effects of compaction can be partially relieved by aerating the soil ie punching holes in the soil to allow water and oxygen to enter and other gases to escape. Keep in mind that walking on the lawn when it is sodden will compact the soil even further. Encouraging earthworms by leaving lawn clippings to lie where they fall, rather than using a catcher or raking, is another way to help relieve the effects of compaction. Avoiding overuse of superphosphate and chemicals is also important if you wish to encourage earthworms.

Mower height
Setting the mower blades too low weakens the grass and limits root growth. This means that the grass will require more watering and bare patches may develop. Set the mower height according to how fast the grass is growing. Don't cut more than one third of the foliage at each cut.

Fertilising
Over-fertilising of lawns is undesirable, both environmentally and because of the damage it can do to your grass. If you have clover (see right) in your lawn and if you don't remove the clippings, your grass will probably get almost all the nitrogen it needs. An annual application of slow release lawn fertiliser will most likely be sufficient. If you want a perfect lawn then be aware that it will be thirsty, fertiliser-greedy and time-consuming. Be wary that problems with your lawn may not be the result of lack of nutrients, but some of the other problems we have discussed or damage from pests such as lawn grubs, mole crickets, army worms or fungi.

Weed and pest control
The use of herbicides and pesticides in lawn management is a matter of personal choice. Suffice it to say that over-use is ecologically destructive to soil organisms and may affect other creatures in the food chain. Use such chemicals with the utmost care. Many of us survive quite happily with a sward full of lawn daisies and clover and attack any particularly troublesome weeds with a knife and a bucket. Obviously this is not an easy option for those with a huge garden to manage. Lawns that are well-prepared and established from the beginning are much more resistant to weed and pest invasion.

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Plants need fertiliser to provide chemicals for the amazing number of chemical reactions that are necessary for growth to occur. The most vital chemicals are those that make up water and air. To create energy, plants also need light and warmth.

Nutrients
Plants create an astonishing array of materials. Just think - leaves, bark, fruit, seeds, flowers, nectar, oils, resins, tannin, fibres, wood, gum, roots, tubers, bulbs and toxins to name a few! These things are created by chemical reactions controlled by the plant's genetic blueprint. As well as the essential oxygen, water and carbon dioxide, plants require a range of nutrients that they obtain from the soil. The nutrients are dissolved by water and then taken up by the plant's roots. (This is why fertilisers must be watered in and why you never apply liquid fertiliser to dry soil. If there is insufficient water, or if plants are over-fertilised, there will be a greater concentration of salts (fertiliser) outside the plants' roots than inside and water will actually move out of the roots. This is often referred to as root burn.)

NPK
The most important nutrients required by plants are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The NPK ratio (ie the relative amounts of these nutrients that the fertiliser contains) is generally printed on the labels of commercial chemical fertilisers. Nitrogen is essential for the synthesis of proteins in plants and especially for leaf growth. Phosphorus is also necessary for protein synthesis and for root and seedling development, flowering, and seed and fruit production. Potassium helps plants resist disease and increases their strength. Plants use potassium to control the flow of water from the roots up to the leaves. Plants require different proportions of these elements at different stages of their life cycle e.g. more nitrogen at the seedling stage, but a greater proportion of phosphorus and potassium relative to nitrogen when it is time to flower.

Minor elements & trace elements
As well as these major elements, plants also require calcium, magnesium and sulphur. Calcium is particularly important in the development of plant cell walls, and both magnesium and sulphur have a role to play in photosynthesis. In addition, there is a wide range of minor chemicals that plants need in very tiny quantities. These are called trace elements.

So, how do plants obtain these necessary chemicals? They can either access them from minerals and decomposed organic material in the soil, or from commercial fertilisers applied to the soil. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

Organic fertiliser
The advantage of using organic material such as compost and leaf mould is that there is no danger of over-fertilising. A compost that is made from a variety or organic materials will generally contain all the necessary elements, and certainly all the trace elements, required for plant health. These nutrients will be dissolved slowly into the soil as the material breaks down. Organic material also improves the structure of the soil, increases microbial activity and encourages earthworms. The biggest disadvantage is that it is very hard to determine what proportions of the major elements organic fertilisers contain, and deficiencies may only become apparent when plants show signs of stress. Organic material must be well decomposed before the chemicals are available in a form that plants can use. This takes time. If your compost still smells sour and yucky, it's not ready for use. Compost should smell sweet and earthy.

Chemical fertilisers
Artificial (chemical) fertilisers have their contents clearly listed on the pack. This makes it easier to cater to individual plants' needs. Artificial fertilisers are quick and easy to use. The big disadvantage is that many people do not bother to read the instructions or follow them properly. This can lead to over-fertilising, and, as we have mentioned, it can damage plants. More importantly, it can lead to severe environmental damage as the excess fertiliser is leached out into streams and rivers. Used properly, commercial fertilisers achieve excellent results. Spread carelessly, they do damage and waste money. Using more than it says on the pack will not make your plants grow better!

Other factors to consider
Plants need nutrients, but remember that failure to thrive may not mean that more fertiliser is needed. If you have already fed the plants appropriately, then check other factors. Is the pH of the soil suitable for the plant? It is getting too much water, or not enough? Does it get too much sun or not enough? Is the soil compacted? Does it need more shelter from prevailing winds? Is the climate appropriate for this plant? Is there a pest problem? A good general gardening text will help you answer these questions. Yates Garden Guide is a good place to start.

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Beginner gardeners often make the mistake of believing that near enough is good enough. For much of what we do in gardening, this is probably a reasonable approach. Plants are remarkably adaptable. However, the one area where it is a seriously bad idea is when it comes to applying chemicals.

Garden centres have shelves filled with products that you can apply to your garden. These fall into four main categories: fertilisers, herbicides, pesticides and fungicides. All of them need to be approached with caution and used according to directions on the label.

Many more plants have died from over-fertilisation than ever died through lack of nutrients. If you apply too much fertiliser you will cause root burn and it can kill plants. It is much more likely to happen when the weather is hot and dry.

Some fertilisers can damage certain plants. Australian native plants, especially those in the Proteaceae family which includes grevilleas, waratahs, banksias, macadamias, buckinghamia, hakeas & isopogons, among others, can be killed by fertiliser that is high in phosphorus (the P in NPK). These plants need fertiliser that is especially formulated for natives.

Slow release fertilisers are much less likely to cause damage to plants as the nutrients are released slowly as needed. Applying too much fertiliser is also damaging to the environment. Apply only the amount suggested on the label. Adding more will not make plants grow better, but may cause them damage.

Herbicides are used to kill weeds and unwanted plants. You should take particular care with any product that is used to kill things. READ THE LABEL. Just because a product is available to the home gardener does not mean that it is benign - in fact the reverse is sometimes true. In their wisdom, the powers-that-be allow certain chemicals for which a license-to-use is necessary for professional horticulturists, to be sold freely to the home gardener. The rationale is that home gardeners' exposure is likely to be limited because they are not going to be using it on a daily basis. However some of these products contain chemicals that may contribute to birth defects and cause serious damage to major organs if used incorrectly. Just because you can't see the danger does not mean that it is not there. NEVER apply a product unless you have read the fine print. ALWAYS protect your self with protective clothing before spraying.

Based on our current level of knowledge, of the herbicides available today, those containing glyphosate appear to be among the safest to use. These products include Roundup, Zero, Glyphosate 360, No Grow 450, Weedmaster Blue & Weed Killer. Read the label to find the active ingredient of any product you are considering using. Use the dilution rate on the pack. You can guarantee that the chemical companies have not understated the amount required - it is not in their interests to do so. Choosing to increase the rate is a waste of money and environmentally suspect.

Some herbicides are selective - they kill some things and not others eg they might kill broadleaf weeds in grass. Remember that if you use these products on your lawn they will kill off everything that is not grass including clover. They won't just kill the weeds you don't like! Other herbicides are non-selective ie they kill everything. Glyphosate is non-selective. Always spray on a still day because spray drift can kill plants. Roses are particularly susceptible.

These chemicals are used to kill garden pests. You must read the label to see if the product you are considering will kill the target pest. Obviously, you need to examine your plants carefully so that you know what it is that is eating them. Avoid using pesticides if you can.

Some pesticides are much more benign than others, but all should be treated with care. Just because a product is derived from natural sources does not mean that it is benign. Derris Dust for instance contains rotenone which can have serious affects on humans if not used with care. As a general rule, products based on garlic, eucalyptus, and natural pyrethrum are among the safest to use. A bit more serious are those based on carbaryl. Pesticides that should only be used as a last resort are those based on dimethoate eg Rogor and maldison eg Malathion and a range of other serious chemicals that enter the food chain and cause environmental damage. (If you have European Wasps treated in your garden you may discover that the operator is planning to use clorpyrifos (Dursban) which is banned in the US but not in Australia - yet.)

Despite containing animal repellents, MOST SNAIL BAITS ARE NOT SAFE FOR PETS - read the whole label. Baits containing metaldehyde & methiocarb can kill cats, dogs and wildlife. Multiguard is based on iron chelates and is much, much safer for pets, but still very effective on snails and slugs.

These products are used to kill fungal spores that cause damage to plants eg black spot, leaf curl, damping off, mildews, petal blight, dollar spot. Applying pesticides will not kill fungus. Get someone to diagnose what kind of fungal problem you have so that you can select the appropriate fungicide to deal with the problem. READ THE LABEL and only use as directed.

A general rule - DO NOT APPLY ANY GARDEN CHEMICALS ON A VERY HOT (ESPECIALLY A HOT, DRY & WINDY) DAY. This includes products such as pyrethrum spray. Plants under stress can be damaged by chemicals under these conditions.

Illustration:
Read the directions on the label fully. They are there for your protection. 

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Dealing with Snails & Slugs

Slugs and snails are particularly active in mild, moist weather. They can do extensive damage to a garden if they are not kept under control.

In spring, large numbers of baby snails emerge from clusters of soft white eggs that are laid in soil. You may dig these eggs up from time to time when you are gardening. Snails and slugs rely on having places to hide from predators such as birds during the day and keeping the garden clear of rubbish such as empty pots, piles of rocks, timber and bricks will reduce the number of hiding places and make the molluscs more vulnerable. Birds, especially ground feeders such as thrushes and blackbirds are very useful for reducing snail and slug populations. Providing water will help to attract birds. Ducks such as Khaki Campbell are also good at cleaning up snails but duck droppings can be very messy!

Going outside on a cool damp night armed with a torch and stout boots, you may be amazed to see the number of snails attacking plants in your garden beds and on your lawn. You can reduce the population quite substantially by stamping on every one you see.

Other organic approaches include various traps and deterrents. Beer traps can be made by sinking a margarine container of beer (stale, flat beer is OK if you don't want to waste the good stuff) into the soil so that the lip is just at soil level. Snails are attracted by the smell and fall in and drown. Replace the beer every few days. Snails do not like to cross gritty or flaky material that sticks to their "feet". Surrounding seedlings, etc with fresh sawdust or crushed eggshells may deter them. You have to keep replacing it though, because as soon as the surface crusts they will ignore it.

Goodbye Snails is a spray that contains a substance that snails and slugs will not cross. You can spray it around pots and plants to deter them. You have to remember to reapply it after rain. Gone Snail is a non-chemical product that relies on a combination of sawdust and a mixture of four different plant products to repel snails.

There are a number of baits that are very effective against snails & slugs. Multiguard is a very effective snail and slug bait that represents little danger to pets. It is based on Iron EDTA - chelated iron. Blitzem and Defender snail bait contains metaldehyde which kills molluscs through dehydration and which is deadly if ingested in sufficient quantities by animals. The products contain a very bitter repellent to discourage children and pets from eating them, but dogs in particular often steal packets and gobble down the contents before they realise it tastes awful. It can kill them. It may also kill birds if they eat it directly. However once the snails and slugs have ingested and metabolised the product it does not represent a danger to birds and animals that eat the dead snails. It is broken down into natural compounds by soil micro-organisms. It is the cheapest bait. Baysol contains methiocarb which affects the molluscs' central nervous system. It is also dangerous for pets and birds. It can also kill earthworms. It does not go mouldy like metaldehyde baits often do and lasts longer in wet weather. It is more expensive. Don't let any snail pellets sit on the leaves - apply the products to the soil. Never heap these products. Sprinkle them around lightly, preferably out of sight of birds.

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Plant Diseases

Plant diseases fall into three main categories. These are fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Fungal diseases can be treated. There are preventative measures that can protect against some bacterial and fungal diseases. There are no chemicals that can protect plants against viruses or cure them once they have entered the plant.

There are many fungal diseases. The ones most commonly encountered by home gardeners are Damping-off, Phytophthora root rot, Downy Mildew, Powdery Mildew, Black Spot, Petal Blight, Peach Leaf Curl, Fusarium Wilt, Brown Patch, Dollar Spot, Sooty Mould, Collar Rot and Rust, but there are many others. As a general rule, to help prevent fungal disease:

• avoid over-head watering,
• give plants plenty of space,
• increase air circulation around plants
• ensure that the soil drains well  
• remove and burn or dispose of affected leaves or plants to help to prevent the spores spreading

Prevention is better than cure but there are some broad spectrum fungicides that can be used to treat a wide range of fungal diseases. These include sulphur and copper based products - copper oxychloride is one of the most popular. Phosphorous acid (phosacid) based products are generally regarded as less environmentally damaging. Other fungicides are designed to treat specific fungi only. Your nurseryperson can help you choose the best product for the job. Some fungicides must be applied at exactly the correct time eg to prevent Peach Leaf Curl in stone fruit. Only apply if really necessary, read the label completely and always follow the instructions to the letter.

The most common bacterial diseases gardeners are likely to face are Crown Gall (especially stone fruits & roses), Bacterial Canker (of stone fruit, citrus, hibiscus, tomato & capsicum), Bacterial Soft Rot (of carrot, potato, onion, iris), though there are many others. Conditions favouring fungal disease also favour bacterial infection & the same preventative measures apply. Both these kinds of diseases are encouraged by poor pruning techniques and trunk or branch damage.

Remember :

• Use sharp pruning tools.
• Don't prune in wet weather.
• Don't damage tree bark with whipper-snippers or mowers.
• Avoid bringing in soil. 
• Buy plants and seeds from reputable suppliers.

The use of chemicals to control bacterial diseases is not very effective, though some copper-based products may have some preventative effect.

Viral diseases are most often observed by unusual marking and colouration of leaves and sometimes petals - patterns, mottling, mosaics, streaking, ringspots - and malformation of leaves, flowers or fruit. Some plant viruses don't cause much damage, but most stunt the plant, reduce its lifespan or kill it outright. There is no cure. Some common viruses are Apple Mosaic Virus (apples, prunus, roses, strawberries, hops, horse chestnuts), Cucumber Mosaic Virus, Cymbidium Mosaic Virus, Tomato Spotted Wilt (tomato, capsicum, celery, eggplant, lettuce, potato, spinach, asters, chrysanthemums, dahlias, petunias, zinnias, nasturtiums & others).

Remember:

• viruses are most commonly spread through the action of sap-sucking insects such as aphids and leafhoppers, so controlling these insects is important.
• failure to clean pruning equipment and hands may also transfer viruses in plant sap
• some viruses are transferred by pollen.
• plants affected by serious viruses should be destroyed and removed.
• choosing certified virus-free plants of susceptible plants eg potatoes & strawberries is the best way of keeping your garden free of viral disease.

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Our gardens are sources of relaxation and pleasure but they can also be dangerous places - many serious accidents happen in our own backyards every year. If you add to that number all those relatively minor hurts from bites, wounds, falls and allergic reactions, and the yet to be revealed damage caused by the sun and exposure to toxic material, it amounts to a lot of unnecessary and thoroughly preventable suffering. Wise up and take care out there!

Falls

Apart from road accidents, falls are the greatest cause of accidental death in Australia. Keep this in mind before you adopt the "She'll be right, mate" attitude to climbing ladders to clean gutters or to prune trees. Do not use boxes or stacked chairs to reach high places and keep the dog and the kids well away from the area.

These are dangerous chemicals. Use ONLY as directed. Wear protective clothing. Do not spray on windy days. Abide by the withholding period stated (i.e. don't eat fruit and vegetables that have recently been sprayed.) Keep chemicals locked up well away from children and have all substances clearly labelled for your own protection. If you need to dispose of a product ask the advice of the local council. Don't just put it in the bin. NEVER pour it down the drain.

Mower fuel, heating fuel, petrol and oil for cars are often found in garden sheds. Keep all fuels locked away from children. Never smoke or use welding equipment near where fuels are stored. A spark from static electricity is enough to ignite fuel. Don't transfer petrol from one container to another. NEVER pour it down a drain. If clothing is soaked with fuel, don't just pull it off. A spark of static electricity could turn you into a human torch. Wet the clothing immediately and remove it carefully.

To be effective, many garden tools need to be well-sharpened. Unfortunately this also makes them dangerous. Misjudgement with secateurs can mean a wound that requires stitches. Anyone getting in the way of a pick or spade can be seriously injured. Many accidents are caused by tools, especially rakes and forks, being left lying about. A hanging spot for each tool in the shed helps to prevent this, as a missing tool is easy to detect. Keep tools away from children.

Planting trees under power lines can cause fires. Perhaps even more insidious is the situation where a tree breaks a power line and it is only discovered when it is too late and someone has touched the live wire. Keep power lines clear.

More damage is done to the skins of Australians in their own backyards than is ever done at the beach. When gardening, put on sunscreen before you go out, wear a hat and long sleeves when possible. Grow shade trees in the garden. Protect children's play areas such as sand pits and play equipment with shady trees and protect the pool area with a pergola, fabric shade or roofing that filters out U/V rays.

Falling branches can be lethal. Choose only small to medium trees for the backyard and have larger trees regularly examined by a tree surgeon and have him/her remove dangerous branches. Lopping and removal of trees is a job for the professionals. Without experience, it is difficult to estimate where a tree or branch will fall. Apart from killing yourself or others, you can also do serious damage to your house. Chainsaws in the hands of the inexperienced are notoriously dangerous. NEVER use a chainsaw single-handed.

The icon of the Aussie suburban backyard, the proverbial mower, has a lot to answer for, or more to the point, careless people who use mowers do. Eye damage from stones, hearing damage from noise, severed toes, missing fingers all stand testament for the need to be careful. Wear solid shoes, goggles and ear protection. Keep the children inside when you are mowing. Turn it off when you are refuelling, checking the blades or talking to the neighbours.

There are plenty of opportunities for getting wounds when gardening. It is often tempting to leave a minor wound until later for treatment, but this is asking for trouble. Puncture wounds are particularly dangerous. Encourage bleeding, then disinfect and cover the wound. Keen gardeners should keep their tetanus boosters up to date. Eyes are easily damaged when gardening. Sunglasses can often prevent foliage, sticks, debris, etc from getting in the eyes.

Wasps, bees, spiders and snakes are among the nasties that may inhabit your garden. Keep rubbish cleared away and wear footwear and gardening gloves. If you are susceptible to allergic reaction, then bee or wasps stings, especially around the head and throat can be life threatening. Have medication handy and seek help immediately. If you are bitten by a snake or spider it will help if you can describe what type it was as the hospital can select the appropriate anti-venom, otherwise a general antivenene will be administered. Don't cut, squeeze or suck the bite. Call for help, apply a firm elastic bandage (wind it down from the bite to the extremities i.e. fingers or toes and then back up the limb as far as you can go), immobilise the affected area, try to stay calm and wait for the ambulance. Every victim of snake-bite should go to a hospital. Many snakes are not dangerous, but don't risk it.

Unfortunately there are many plants that cause allergic reactions. Try to isolate the plants responsible and consider having them removed. Hayfever is frequently caused by pollens. There is more pollen in the air in the mornings, so stay indoors and keep windows closed until after 11am.

All kinds of organic materials eg potting mix, compost, mulch and manures potentially harbour dangerous organisms such as legionella. Avoid inhaling dusts from these materials, especially if you are asthmatic or suffer from bronchitis, if you are a smoker or if you are elderly. Wet these materials before using them. Wear gardening gloves and wash your hands well after gardening.

Poisonous plants are a particular threat to young children and babies who tend to put everything in their mouths. Take care if you have children or if they visit your garden. Many common garden plants are toxic if ingested. It is not easy to know which plants are poisonous, but be very wary of plants with milky sap. Supervise young children in the garden.

In summer, pests are at their peak - munching, sucking, burrowing nuisances that invade our plants. There are many things we as gardeners can do to reduce pest attack. Spraying with pesticides is the very last resort, because many sprays kill off the good, useful creatures in the garden such as ladybirds, predatory wasps, preying mantises, dragonflies, hoverflies and lacewings and may harm birds as the poison is passed up the food chain. Low-impact systemic sprays may kill off leaf-eating/chewing pests without harming the useful predatory insects. Plants have their own defences against pest attack and healthy, well-fed and well-watered plants will resist insect attack more effectively than stressed plants. Seaweed products are reputed to assist plants to repel pest invasion. Always try an environmentally-friendly approach first.

Aphid

Small soft-bodied green, brown, pink, grey or white sucking insects

Squash between thumb and forefingers or hose off with a strong spray.

If necessary, use pyrethrum spray. On ornamentals a low-toxicity systemic spray such as Confidor will kill aphids without harming "good bugs".

Caterpillars

Pick off and squash.

Use Dipel which is a biological agent that affects caterpillars only. Pyrethrum may also be effective.

Scale

Looks like small limpets stuck on to leaves, often on the midrib. White Wax Scale looks like blobs of white wax.

May be washed off with soapy water. Can be treated with White Oil or Pest Oil.

Thrips

Tiny sucking flying insects

Thrips are attracted to white and yellow. A sticky white board may attract and trap many of them.

Spray with Pyrethrum Plus Garlic. Systemic sprays such as Confidor can be used on ornamentals if necessary.

Whitefly

Small white flying insects that congregate under leaves of ornamentals and also vegetables. They usually only take to the wing when disturbed.

Whitefly nymphs are attacked by little predatory wasps. If you see that many of the nymphs are black (they look like little disks on the backs of the leaves - use a magnifying glass), then there is a good population of wasps & they are doing their job - don't spray.

Whitefly are attracted to yellow sticky boards & this may keep populations to manageable levels.

If there is no evidence of predatory wasps, spray with Pyrethrum Longlife.

Red Spider Mite or Two-spotted Mite

These pests are tiny and only just visible to the naked eye. They may be bright red but are often greenish or yellowish. They are usually found on the undersides of leaves where they are identified by the fine webbing that accompanies an infestation of these pests.

Mites often develop resistance to pesticide sprays. They like dry conditions so spraying up under the foliage & keeping the area well-watered and humid will discourage them. Natural enemies include little black ladybirds, lacewings, native mites and introduced predatory mites.

If necessary, try Bug-B-Gon on ornamental plants.

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