Do you love the tangy taste and scent of lemons, but lack the room for a tree? Helen McKerral searches out some very clever lemon pretenders.

Tart and irresistible, the bite of lemon must surely be the most promiscuous of flavours. It marries equally well with sugar in desserts and drinks, with fish and fowl in main courses, and with herbs and spices in Asian dishes. Like salt, a tiny squeeze of lemon juice or rind has the ability to enhance other flavours. The scent of lemons is just as delicious, a refreshing and invigorating addition to pot-pourris, perfumes, cosmetics and massage oils.

Unfortunately, not all of us are lucky enough to have our own lemon tree: perhaps your climate or soil is unsuitable, or you lack space in your garden. Don’t despair! A huge range of herbs are lemon pretenders, and make perfect substitutes for their famous relative.

When growing lemon-scented herbs, remember that warm, sunny conditions generally intensify flavour. Most prefer well-drained, humus-rich soil, but avoid overfeeding with fast-acting nitrogenous fertilisers: you’ll end up with large, lush leaves that look good but lack flavour. Some herbs may be harvested year-round; others are best harvested before or during their flowering period, but all should be cut early in the morning rather than later in the day. Some herbs may be effectively dried until crisp in a slow oven or microwave, and then stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard. Others may be frozen.

Lemon-scented herbs are generally rich in aromatic oils but lack citric acid, so you get the flavour and scent without the sourness! This is rarely a problem, but if substituting for lemon juice in sweet dishes you may need to reduce the amount of sugar.

Whole leaves may be infused - add them early in the cooking process, and remove at the end. Alternatively, finely chop soft leaves or puree them with other fresh spices and a little oil or water in the blender.

Steep dried or fresh leaves in boiling water for teas, or lay them beneath fish when grilling for a more subtle hint of flavour.

Dry strongly aromatic leaves and add to pot-pourris, or add to massage oil and let infuse in a warm place for a few weeks.

And remember, too, that lemon-scented plants placed near a pathway will release their scent each time you brush by them, and often after rain as well. Plant near windows or in window boxes so the scent wafts indoors.

(Hint: you can often recognise lemon scented or flavoured plants by a species name that includes the word citriodora, citrata or citratus).

Lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus)

The classic ingredient in many Asian curries, this herb forms a big clump up to a metre tall and wide. Use the thickened white part of the stem, peeled and chopped finely. Grow lemon grass in a warm, frost-free, sunny, well-drained spot in humus-rich soil. To store, wrap stems in Gladwrap and freeze.

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis, M. o. ‘Aurea’, M. o. ‘Variegata’)

A self-seeding herbaceous perennial (may become invasive in some gardens, where it should be cut back before seed sets), this is one of the easiest and vigorous lemon herbs to grow. Give clumps room to spread.

Lemon bergamot (Monarda citriodora)

This short-lived herbaceous perennial grows to about 60 cm. Give it moist, fertile soil and protection from frost. Divide clumps regularly to maintain their vigour. Harvest the leaves before the stems flower.

Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) (See right)

A shrub or small tree native to Queensland, the leaves have an intense lemon flavour. Young plants are slightly frost-tender but will survive in cold areas in a sheltered, semi-shaded position. Lemon myrtle prefers rich, moist, well-drained soil. Mulch with old compost.

Lemon verbena (Lippia triphylla)

This deciduous shrub grows to 2m but should be pruned hard each winter. Give it half to full sun and well-drained soil. Harvest leaves and young tips just before flower buds open. Dry leaves and infuse for a delicious tea.

Lemon- scented pelargonium (see left) (P. ‘Mabel Grey’, P. crispum, P. crispum ‘Variegatum’)

These wonderful soft-stemmed shrubs thrive in warm, frost-free climates in a sunny position. The leaves are ideal for pot-pourris. Cut plants back hard to maintain a compact shape. P. ‘Mabel Grey’ has the most intense scent.

Lemon thymes (Thymus X citriodorus and varieties ‘Aureus’, ‘Nyewoods’, ‘Silver Queen’, ‘Variegatus’)

Thymes thrive in rockeries in well-drained, slightly alkaline soil. Old plants may become bare and woody - take cuttings every few years, or layer stems by covering with moist soil. Cut back old plants by half each year to encourage fresh growth. The lemon-scented varieties include several cultivars variegated in silver or gold, plus an all-gold variety. Harvest stems when in flower.

Lemon basil (Ocimum americanum)

A compact species combining the scent and flavour of, you’ve guessed it, lemon and basil. Cultivate as for sweet basil: a warm, well-drained sunny position, protected from frost.

Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix)

Technically a cousin to lemon rather than a substitute, but qualifying for inclusion here because of its exquisitely flavoured leaves. A truly delicious taste, essential in many Asian dishes like Tom Yum soup. Grow Kaffir limes in rich well-drained soil in tropical regions, or in a tub against a north-facing wall of the house in cooler regions. Harvest leaves as required.

Web Tip:
Use your search engine to find "herbs", then search within results for "lemon scented" for more information and recipes.